Fishermen, outdoor workers, polar explorers – since 1853 Devold has been providing woollen clothing for the outdoor working Norwegian. Quality, experience and responsibility are the hallmarks of the Norwegian Merino experts of natural wool fibres. Devold is the oldest manufacturer of knitted garments in Norway and was founded by Ole Andreas Devold over 160 years ago, with the aim of protecting the wearer from the elements of nature.
It all began in the 19th century in Ålesund on the Norwegian coast. Aiming to provide protection from the elements and the harsh climate of Norway, inspiration soon came quickly: In order to facilitate work under the wet and cold conditions that fishermen endure, Ole Andreas Devold started out making mittens from wool. Soon a succession of knitted hats, scarves and woollen underwear followed as well as various clothing items. The material needed to be durable, protect its wearer from the elements and be suitable for any sort of outdoor work or activity – or both!
From fishermen to extreme explorer: The beginnings of the brand Devold
Soon, not only fishermen and professional workers but also Norwegian adventurers and expedition researchers felt warm and secure from the warm wool fibre that Devold provided them with. Between 1888 and 1926 great explorers such as Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen went in search of polar regions wearing Devold.
Some 160 years have passed since Ole Andreas Devold started in 1853 with textile production. Today, Devold of Norway still develops clothing that is designed with the highest standards of quality and functionality under extreme weather and environmental conditions. During the 20th century and particularly in recent decades Devold products have been repeatedly tested on expeditions, most recently in 2013 on Ellesmere Island, Northern Canada on the New Land Expedition.
Today, as it was back then, Devold still focus on natural raw wool. The company has evolved since it produced its first garment – a coarse-mesh sweater for workers, going on to make classic, durable knitted caps and sweaters and essential gear designed for active people who demand comfort and functionality.
Merino Wool – The wonder fibre
For more than 100 years Devold has been producing garments made from Norwegian wool and functional base layers made from merino wool. The brand has a proud, long tradition in the manufacturing of natural fibres. Bergzeit was fortunate enough to meet up with Ole Andreas Devold, great-grandson and namesake of Devold’s founder, at ISPO 2014, where he told us with a conviction that: “Wool is the eighth wonder of the world.” And went on further to say:
“Merino wool, as compared to synthetic materials, can contain as much as 35% moisture without feeling clammy or wet.” When conditions are cold and damp, merino wool absorbs moisture and triggers a process where the fabric can also generate heat. We were able to observe an interesting experiment, whereby a moistened piece of cloth made from merino wool rose to 7°C within a few minutes. Ole Andreas explained to us, that the thermal value, depending on wool quality can last up to as long as fifteen to twenty minutes. Even then, the wool doesn’t feel uncomfortable on the skin as it dries extremely quickly. “The fishermen in the 19th century dipped their gloves into the water shortly before they set out to wear them in order to keep their ice-cold hands warm” he explains.
The Devold outdoor collection
In winter Devold focuses on functional base layers for intensive sport and leisure activities that include extreme weather conditions.
The extra-fine and breathable Breeze series (150 grams / m²) is Devold’s lightest material that is well suited for year-round everyday wear. For high-pulse outdoor activities, Devold has created a sports series with a durable base layer, which not only regulates body temperature but gives superb insulation in both hot and cold temperatures by way of its rib structure and resulting air chambers. DEVOLD® Active increases this isolation performance yet even further by combining “Thermo° Cool™ and wool” to a two-layer fabric with increased moisture absorption. Due to the technical ThermoCool inner material and the Merino outer layer a comfortable body temperature can be maintained even infrequent spurts of activity and rest periods.
With DEVOLD® Wool Mesh Norwegian wool experts provide a functional layer, which consists of two different wool fibre structures. In zones where sweat can be more pronounced and good moisture and temperature regulation is necessary, fine, elastic mesh (mesh animation) has been processed resulting in a highly breathable fabric. The mesh structure of the material has fewer points of contact with the skin forming an insulating layer for the body and preventing cold gaps from forming. On more exposed areas, or where it makes sense for optical reasons (for example, on the chest), rib-knit has been used, which is particularly robust and durable.
Warms in cold weather cools in the heat
Not only functional in cold conditions, but merino wool also helps when things start to warm up. Merino wool works naturally with your body’s heating and cooling system. It regulates temperature by absorbing and releasing moisture. Devold uses modern fibre technology to help insulate and to optimise its wool products breathability
Not just for merino sheep
As an extension of their functional clothing and headgear made from merino wool, Devold offers the Optimum Series. A classic collection of thicker merino mid-layers with an emphasis on leisurewear in the form of thicker, pure wool sweaters. Feet are also kept warm and dry with Devold merino socks for every occasion: from anatomically trekking socks to leggings, even compression socks for ski touring. Through all of this, the Norwegian company has stayed loyal to its origins: functional sports and leisure clothing aside DEVOLD® Protection caters to outdoor workers with a collection of protective clothing specified for the cold and flame resistant.
Wool for the Extreme
For high performance in extreme weather conditions, Devold has developed an expedition-line of base layers that carry through lasting expeditions to the coldest parts of the world. As the name suggests, Devold® Expedition has been proven on several polar expeditions and is the only dual-layer wool underwear with an Aquaduct function. Expedition underwear is made from 95% pure new Aquaduct treated merino wool, providing warmth during demanding cold-weather activities. Even when the temperature drops below -50°C, the heat isolating and moisture absorbing qualities of wool let you feel warm and dry. The Aquaduct treatment improves moisture transport to the outside of the garment where evaporating DEVOLD® expedition was tested on expeditions and showed that the double- layer of merino wool (235 g / m²) isolates superbly in cold weather. By combining the two layers moisture absorption is increased even more: The inner layer is made of 100% merino wool and wicks moisture to the next layer where it can evaporate. Tests have shown that drops were absorbed within seconds and that after a short period the inner layer was completely dry, while the outside was moist. The Aquaduct treated outer layer with a ten% polyamide component is closely intertwined with the inner layer and makes the garment even more robust.
Devold: A company with a responsibility
What distinguishes Devold from other brands that also produce Merino clothing? Although the Norwegian company is now no longer a family business, it still relies on its 160-year tradition and emphasizes its responsibility towards the well-being of humans, animals and the environment.
The Norwegian company attaches great importance to quality. Firstly Devold controls the origin of Merino wool by wool imported exclusively from certified farms in Tasmania. This way the company can guarantee that its suppliers do not conduct mulesing on the sheep (an extremely painful method in controlling the infestation of blowfly larvae on the sheep). Devold has also chosen to buy wool tops instead of yarn. It gives the company a unique control of the spinning process of the yarn, both with a view to quality and technical specifications. By buying wool tops instead of yarn, improved controlling of the wool’s origin is possible.
Devold’s headquarters since 1868 in Langevåg on the Norwegian coast, is responsible for the entire manufacturing process itself – from spinning, knitting, dyeing and sewing. Produced in Lithuania in its own factory with approximately 300 employees, Devold performs not only strict quality control in all stages of production but is stringent that the working conditions be optimal.
Regardless of the weather, outdoor fun can still be enjoyed with the protection of clothing that Devold provide – and Devold employees are convinced that wool fibre is still the best way to protect. Merino clothing is tested on the spot in Norway – it’s hard to find a better testing ground elsewhere.
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